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A family city guide to Barcelona

Sep 20, 2023Sep 20, 2023

Sandwiched between forested hills and a long sandy stretch of coastline, Barcelona is one of the most attractive city breaks in Europe. And this Spanish seaside favourite has just as much appeal for children as it does for adults. Its lively squares are lined with family-friendly cafes, while its many parks offer playgrounds and space for kids to let off steam. Museums inspire with workshops and activities, and a stroll down La Rambla to the beach is a quintessential family experience.

Barcelona's unique Gaudí architecture also provides endless entertainment – no kid will forget the sight of the dragon-scale roof at Casa Batlló, or weaving between the rooftop chimneys of La Pedrera, which are said to have inspired Star Wars' Storm Troopers. Gaudí's Park Güell even has a pair of tiny fairytale-esque cottages flanking its gates.

Whether you’re travelling with babies and toddlers, older children or tweens, families are guaranteed to enjoy Barcelona. Here's how to make the most of your time in the city.

Toddlers: Barely a week goes by in Barcelona without a festival or street procession, but if you’re out of luck you can take the little ones to La Casa dels Entremesos (‘The Giants Museum’) to see a selection of the huge figures used in the processions. There are fibreglass giants in medieval costumes, fire-breathing dragons and capgrossos — huge papier-mâché heads worn by festival participants.

For outdoor fun, the boating lake at the leafy Parc de la Ciutadella in the El Born district is always a hit, and there's never a bad time to visit the beach. In the summer months, the Centre de la Platja, on the stretch of beach known as Somorrostro, offers access to books, games and beach toys free of charge.

If bedtimes permit, another favourite is the Magic Fountain at Plaça Espanya, a spectacular display of coloured lights and dancing jets of water, set to a wonderfully kitsch soundtrack of classical and pop music. It runs after dusk from Thursday to Sunday.

Children under 10: Barcelona has a huge aquarium with educational games and workshops aimed at families, plus a hilltop funfair. Yet the city's greatest appeal for kids often lies in simply exploring the streets — marvelling at the human statues that dot La Rambla, puzzling at Gaudí's fantastical buildings, or hopping around using Barcelona's unique modes of transport.

As well as the many bike tours, there are rickshaws, pedal cars for families in the Parc de la Ciutadella and a cable-car running up the sides of Montjuïc hill. For free entertainment, take a wander through the Parc del Laberint in Horta, a 19th-century garden with a huge cypress maze at its heart.

Among the many museums catering to a younger crowd, the Museu de la Xocolata, a homage to cacao, is guaranteed to grab kids' attention. Its rooms are filled with chocolate sculptures — of well-known buildings, personalities and film characters — and there are frequent activities and workshops (book ahead and put your children in their oldest clothes as things can get messy…).

Tweens and teenagers: Barcelona's three miles of sandy beaches aren't just for sunbathers. They’re dotted with exercise equipment, climbing frames and skate parks, and several companies offer aquatic activities. Intrepid older teens can take to the waves on a jet ski, while over-11s can try their hand at flyboarding or paddleboarding. For days when the weather is less inviting, Bosc Urbà — an urban concrete jungle of zip-lining, high-altitude trampolines, rope ‘vines’ and bridges — will keep kids entertained for hours.

A big part of teen holidays in the digital age is posting photos of cool experiences to friends back home, and Barcelona is certainly one of the more photogenic destinations. From the unique architecture of Gaudí and his contemporaries to the huge splashy artworks at the Fundació Joan Miró, there's always a good shot to be had. Older kids might also enjoy the collection of contemporary art — featuring works by Banksy, Keith Haring, Damien Hirst, Jean-Michel Basquiat and others — at the Moco Museum.

Toddlers: The bold colours, striking patterns, pufferfish wallpaper and shallow pool make the Room-Mate Anna, just off central Passeig de Gràcia, ideal for those with small children. If being within easy reach of the seaside and a good park is important, however, the El Born neighbourhood has some good options, including Decô Apartments. This art deco apartment block is close to the boating lake and playgrounds of the Parc de la Ciutadella, in a lively pedestrianised area.

Children under 10: Barcelona is a very walkable city, but those with short legs might prefer to be at the very centre of things. The Petit Palace Boquería Garden is in the heart of the Barri Gòtic and has family-friendly apartments, as well as rooms for groups of four or six. A slightly more intrepid choice might be the uptown Casa Gràcia, a youth hostel but not as you know them. Bright, elegant and scrupulously clean, it has small dorms that can be block-booked.

Tweens and teenagers: Older kids wanting a degree of independence will enjoy Casa Camper, in which each bedroom has a separate sitting room, complete with hammock and TV. There's also a rooftop with sun loungers and a ‘jungle shower’ among plants, and the icing on the cake is the hotel's free all-day snack bar. It's in the El Raval area and surrounded by stylish shops and galleries — and a lot of skateboarders. Nearby is Happy Apartments, which has a selection of family apartments with fully equipped kitchens.

Toddlers: La Nena, in Gràcia, is a colourful lively cafe, furnished with nursery tables and chairs, and brimming with board games, toys and books. Nearby is Deliziosa Gelateria Italiana, a family-run ice-cream parlour that makes various flavours fresh every day, according to what's in season. Down in El Born, Bar del Convent (Plaça de l’Acadèmia) sits in what used to be the cloister of the Convent Sant Agustí and is now a safe, contained space for small explorers, on the same site as the Museu de la Xocolata.

Children under 10: Pizza Paco (Carrer Allada-Vermell 11) serves up tasty pizzas and empanadas on a sprawling terrace right next to a small playground in El Born. Kasparo, in El Raval, has a great selection of lunch dishes and tapas, and is also next to a good playground. Its terrace tables sit under the shady arcades of the Plaça de Vicenç Martorell. Nearby is the delightfully old-fashioned Granja M Viader (operating since 1870), which has long been a firm favourite with kids due to its indulgent hot chocolate and creamy milkshakes.

Tweens and teenagers: Barcelona's burger joints are now legion, but the original and best is Bacoa, which has various branches around town. Cuines Santa Caterina — housed in the market of the same name in El Born — has a menu that should please everyone, with dishes ranging from tapas and curry to pasta, all cooked in an open kitchen while you watch. The latest trend in the city, however, is finger-licking rotisserie chicken, and few do it better than A Pluma, which has branches in Gràcia and Poblenou.